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Knitting FAQ's
Should I check my tension?
YES! If you want to ensure that your knitting fits the person you are making it
for. For example - if you were making our size P Prairie Wool
Jacket and instead of having 10sts to 4"(10cm) you only had 9sts your
jacket would be 5"(13cm) bigger than you expected If you had 11sts your
jacket would be 4"(10cm) smaller. That is why the correct tension is
essential.
How do I check my tension?
Always measure over at least 4", check you pattern, find out how
many stitches should measure 4" then add 4 more stitches (you can’t count
the curly ones on the edge). Knit
at least 4". Place a pin 2
stitches in from each edge and measure between the pins,
if it measures less than 4" you need to try again with larger
needles and if it measures more than 4" you need to try again with smaller
needles. Check the number of rows
in the same manner. It is usually
more important to have the right number of stitches than rows as you can knit
more or less rows easier than adjusting the number of stitches.
How do I sew my sweater together?
The best way to sew two stocking stitch pieces of knitting together is to use an
invisible, or mattress seam. Thread a blunt needle with matching yarn. Lay the
two pieces of knitting side by side, right sides towards you. Insert the needle
under the bar of the first stitch on one side and draw the yarn through, then
insert the needle under the bar of the first adjacent stitch on the second side
and draw the yarn through.
Work several stitches before drawing up the yarn firmly in the direction of the
seam so that the stitches on the main fabric side are touching and the edge
stitches sink to the back.

Why does the Prairie Wool pull apart when I sew with it?
Prairie Wool is unspun which is why when you pull on it hard it separates. To
solve this problem when the Prairie Wool is threaded in your needle give your
needle a few twists - this will give the Prairie Wool more strength. Repeat this
as necessary as you sew your knitting together.
How do I know what size needle to use if I don't have metric?
See the following conversion charts.
| Metric |
2.00 |
2.25 |
2.75 |
3.00 |
3.25 |
3.50 |
3.75 |
4.00 |
4.50 |
5.00 |
| Canadian |
14 |
13 |
12 |
11 |
10 |
|
9 |
8 |
7 |
6 |
| American |
0 |
1 |
2 |
|
3 |
4 |
5 |
6 |
7 |
8 |
| Metric |
5.50 |
6.00 |
6.50 |
7.00 |
7.50 |
8.00 |
9.00 |
10.00 |
12.00 |
15.00 |
| Canadian |
5 |
4 |
3 |
2 |
1 |
0 |
00 |
000 |
|
|
| American |
9 |
10 |
10 1/2 |
|
|
11 |
13 |
15 |
17 |
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What is grafting?
Grafting or Kitchner Stitch is the joining together of two pieces of
knitting with 'live' (not cast off) stitches.
If you look at your knit stitch you will see that it looks like a V. When you
graft your stitches together
you are going to imitate the knit st.
Each stitch is worked in to twice and will look like this.
When you start one piece of work will be 'near' you and one piece 'away' from
you. You can either leave your stitches on your needles or stitch holders or put
them on to a piece of yarn sliding them off as you sew your stitches together.
Thread
a blunt, large eye needle with the same yarn as your knitting (the needle should
fit through your stitches easily).
Bring the needle up from the wrong side of your work on the piece 'near' you
through the center of the V.
Next bring the needle up from the wrong side through the center of the V on the
piece 'away' from you.
*Now take the needle down the center of the stitch already worked 'near' you
from the front of the work and up in the center of the V of the next stitch on
the piece 'near' you.
Next take the needle down the center of the stitch already worked 'away' from
you and up from the wrong side of the next stitch on the work 'away' from you.*
Repeat from * to * across the live stitches.
That is grafting!
If you look at your work you will see that the yarn you are stitching
with is always on the wrong side of your work when you go from stitch to
stitch on the same piece of work but on the right side of your work when
you go from stitch to stitch on the work 'near' and 'away' from you.
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